「国内文旅卷」世界文化遗产之西递（中英版）

与大部分徽州古村落一样，西递也是依山傍水而建，河水微澜，倒映着村头的剌史牌楼，也荡漾着岁月泛起的层层的涟漪。这剌史牌楼是为胡文光衣锦还乡树k立的，为少见“楼阁式”牌楼，文革时期朱红毛笔的大字标语至今仍在石梁之上，看来还没到可以完全抹去这段历史的时候，理应警示世人莫失莫忘。过了巍峨的牌楼，便进村了。

西递属黟县，盛产深色青石，所以整个小村由规整又不造作的青石铺路，看上去整洁又平缓，踩上去带着温润的凉意，即使是历代的修补也依然是以石补石，令古朴之风得以延续。青石路在古代属于较为奢侈的路面，所以由此可见西递在古代的富庶。其实大多徽州古村落都如此，有出门在外徽商的经济基础，有在家寒窗苦读出人头地的官宦的衣锦还乡，这商政的共同兴旺成就了这些名不见经传的徽州小村当年的繁华。

西递村以胡姓人家为主，明代迁自婺源，而婺源的胡姓则原本姓李，是唐昭宗的后代避难躲于婺源胡姓人家，遂改胡姓。所以村里最壮观的建筑当属胡氏宗祠——敬爱堂。敬爱堂内有个“孝”字，相传为朱熹手书。此字确实蕴涵着程朱理学的精髓，字上半部右为供手作揖谦恭孝敬之样，字上半部左则为尖嘴猴腮的造型，意寓孝敬者为人，忤逆不孝者为畜生。这“孝悌忠信礼仪廉耻”的为人准则便在如此一个封闭的村落代代相传，而当整个中华民族都将此当成封建糟粕予以破除之后，它依然挂在了这里。今天，当越来越多的人意识到在学西方学成四不象后，应理性回归到中国传统道德观了，而其实在徽州的许多地方，它便一直默默存在着。

村里的古居多为明清时代所建，保存完好，代表着古徽州的样子。大门上方铺满了华丽大气的石雕，高高的青石门槛将地气紧锁于家中，不轻易溢走。前厅是“四水归堂”的天井，一样的苔痕碧绿，一样的高耸严峻。大厅的八仙桌与太师椅后挂着苍劲又寓意十足的中堂与对联，在条案上则是东瓶西镜，中央是自鸣钟，寓意终生平静。其实即使是如今的婺源新区，许多家庭也依然如此摆设。厅堂左右有四季长联或书法，上方横梁上则有燕子窝，每年春天它的主人会衔着春泥回来这里。而这四周的窗棂与雀替满是雕梁画栋的纹理，那时生活在这里的人们一定充满着诗情画意的梦想。

值得一提的还有大夫第，这是清初的官宦故居，地处巷口的瘦高型建筑，大门上有“作退一步想”的小篆。因地处临村街墙，为方便过往村民行车走路，建筑特意向内退了一角，这正是“退一步海阔天空”的境地吧。二楼悬空挑出一座玲珑雅致的亭阁式建筑，有人称其为抛绣球的“绣楼”，我倒不这么认为，毕竟在如此封闭又狭窄的空间里，人与人之间应该都是熟识的，根本用不着通过抛绣球来择婿。登亭远望，才明白它真正的作用应该是如亭上的牌匾所写的“山市”。在春暖之际，映山红如血如霞开满山谷，在此远眺，顿生“山花若市”之感。而此刻，远山青葱，炊烟渺渺，鸳瓦粉墙，青石如黛，好一个桃花源里人家。

当煊赫风光的古徽州成为一个历史名词时，小小的西递却承载着这么多古徽州的模样。这斑驳陆离的粉墙，劫后余生的牌楼，空旷残败的祠堂都凝成一个可以触摸得到的符号。这深厚的文化底蕴，在经历沉默后一如“山花若市”般灿烂如虹，随意的一个触碰，指尖便可传达出那个繁华徽州的模样，且愈来愈清晰。

英文版全文

Like most ancient villages of the Huizhou region, Xidi was built near the mountain and by the river. The water ripples quietly, reflecting the Memorial Archway of Prefectural Governor located at the entrance to the village, swinging dimples of time and tide. The Memorial Archway of Prefectural Governor was built for Hu Wenguang when he returned home after acquiring great fame; it was built in the “pavilion style”, which is rarely seen. The characters written with a vermilion writing brush during the Cultural Revolution period are still on the stone girder, which seems to remind people that the history remains and should not be forgotten. Passing through the towering archway, we enter into the village.

Xidi is in Yi County, which is rich in bluestone, so the roads in the whole village are paved with bluestones that are structured yet not artificial, granting them a neat and gentle look. Stepping on the road and you will feel a wisp of mild and humid cool. The repairs over the roads in the past dynasties were made using the same kind of stones so that the primitive simplicity remains unchanged. Paving road with blue stones was luxurious in the ancient period, and from which we can infer that Xidi was rather rich at that time. As a matter of fact, most of the Huizhou ancient villages were like this at that time as Huizhou merchants enjoyed business prosperity away from home and many government officials returned home after acquiring recognition through hard study. The combination of a thriving commerce and politics had prospered the then unknown Huizhou villages.

Xidi developed mainly with the Hu surnamed families whose ancestors moved here from Wuyuan during the Ming Dynasty. Originally, the Hu families at Wuyuan were surnamed Li, but changed it into Hu when the descendants of Tang Emperor Zhaozong (867-904) moved to Hu’s family of Wuyuan for refuge. As a result, the most spectacular architecture in the village is Respect Hall – Clan Temple of the Hu Family, where there is the character “孝”（filial piety）in the hall; it is said to be written by Zhu Xi (famous poet, educator, ideologist, etc. in Southern Song Dynasty). This character indeed conveys the essence of Neo-Confucianism, whose right part of upper half looks like bowing indicating humility and filial piety, while the left part of upper half looks cunning and crafty which means the filial ones are deemed as a person and disobedient ones are like beasts. The value of loyalty and filial piety, sense of propriety, justice, honesty and honor was carried on as a behavior criterion from generation to generation, and even when the whole Chinese nation regarded this as the feudal dross to destroy, it still hung here. Nowadays, as more and more realize that learning from the west is a dead end, it is time for us to return to our rational traditional moral views which, however, have always remained the same quietly at many places of Huizhou.

Most ancient constructions were built during Ming and Qing Dynasties in the village, and they are well preserved and can represent the ancient appearance of Huizhou. Above the door are full of magnificent stone carvings and the high threshold of bluestone keeps the earth qi at home from flowing out. The square patio used for collecting the rain dropping from the roof (namely Sishui Guitang) in the antechamber has the same green moss and towering appearance. The central scroll and couplets hanging behind the square table and old-fashioned wooden armchairs in the hall look vigorous, conveying profound enlightenment. On the console table, there are vases and mirrors placed in accordance with ancient Chinese etiquette (the vases shall be placed on the east side while the mirrors on the west), with a striking clock in the middle, meaning a lifelong calmness. Actually, many families would arrange their furnishings like this in the modern Wuyuan. On each side of the hall lies four-season long couplet or calligraphy and on the beam there is a swallow’s nest whose host would come back every spring holding mud in its mouth. The window lattices and decorated brackets are full of carved beams and painted rafters, and people who lived here in those ancient times must have been filled with poetic dreams.

There is another place worth mentioning; Dafu Mansion, which served as the former residence of government officials of the early Qing Dynasty. It is a lanky architecture at an alley entrance with small seal script of “On the Second Thought” on its gate. Being near the street, the mansion was built a few steps farther from the street to make it convenient for villagers and vehicles; perhaps this is the philosophy of “One step back, and your world becomes larger.” An exquisite and elegant pavilion-like construction is suspended on the second floor. Some call it the “Embroidered Ball Building”, however, I do not think so. Because people must have been familiar with one another in such a closed and narrow space, and there was no need to select a husband by throwing the embroidered ball. You would not know its true function until you ascend the pavilion above, overlooking; and when it comes warm in spring, the valley is full of blood-red azaleas, then one can get the view of flowers on the mountain as the words of “Mountain Mirage” written on the plaque hanging on the pavilion. The verdant distant hills, rising green smoke, paring tiles and pale walls, as well as the bluestones, all together they have constituted such a beautiful ideal picture.

Although the glamorous ancient Huizhou has become a historic word, the small Xidi bears much of the same appearance of ancient Huizhou. The variegated pale walls, surviving memorial archways, and wrecked ancestral halls have simply solidified a touchable symbol. The profound cultural deposit is as glorious as the “Mountain Mirage” after remaining silent; and with simply a touch, the prosperous ancient Huizhou would appear on the fingertip, getting clearer and clearer.

loumey，路美，古建筑